Puerto Vallarta wasn’t always the tourism mecca it is today. Prior to the 1960s it was just a small port town with about 10,000 inhabitants; and then in 1964 Hollywood royalty Richard Burton, Ava Gardner and Director John Houston moved in to film The Night of the Iguana, penned by Tennessee Williams. During the filming, Burton brought his soon to be wife Elizabeth Taylor and by all accounts they both fell in love with the sea side town.
When I try to imagine what Puerto Vallarta must have been like in 1964, I can’t help but think of San Blas – a small town of about 8,000 residents a two hour bus ride North – minus the bugs. Having just spent five weeks in San Blas, I understand the sense of seclusion it must have offered to the couple who were used to being hunted by paparazzi everywhere they went. Even today, the winding, narrow cobble stone streets of Puerto Vallarta are steep and navigating isn’t easy if you don’t know where you’re going. Street names don’t necessarily mesh with what is on the map and in some cases a street will end only to restart abruptly around a corner or just up a hill. The high walls around most properties and the roof top verandas are not easily accessed by prying eyes.
Burton bought Casa Kimberley, which is located in the middle of the old town area of Puerto Vallarta, allegedly as a gift for Elizabeth Taylor’s 34th birthday. She owned it throughout their two marriages (and divorces) and until about ten years after Burton’s death in the early 90s. There isn’t a lot of information about Casa Kimberley online, but by some accounts Taylor stopped visiting the house after Burton’s sudden death. According to one interview, with the daughter of an old Casa Kimberley housekeeper, “She claimed Liz had returned for a couple visits [after the divorce], the last being after Richard’s death. She could not even spend the night in the casa. The memories were too painful”.
I was excited at the prospect of seeing the love nest of what is arguably one of the most passionate and tempestuous relationships of the past century but mostly, I wanted to see the vestiges of the 60s design. When Elizabeth Taylor sold the property in the early 90s, she left almost everything: clothes hanging in the closets, the heart shaped bathtub, magazines on the coffee table, photographs … As though she wanted to leave an entire life of memories behind her. The people who bought the place turned it into part bed and breakfast (each guest room named after a different Taylor or Burton film) and maintained the rest as a kind of living museum to the time the couple spent in Mexico.
Having seen nothing to indicate that this has changed, the other day we trudged through dusty Vallarta with a badly hand drawn map in search of Casa Kimberley – sure that we would be able to spot it by the curved pink bridge that connected the two parts of the property across the narrow Calle Zaragosa. We went across the river, through the local artisan market and finally took a steep climb up a convoluted passage of streets, none of which really corresponded to my badly rendered map. We almost gave up twice. Back in the area that Casa Kimberley is built there are a number of impressive, larger homes and it is quiet with none of the bustle of the touristy area nearer to the seafront. But then, after rounding a corner, I saw the little bridge, which was called ‘Lover’s Arch’, still delicate but also sad and neglected – it’s pink and white paint peeling.
Even from about five meters away, it was obvious that Casa Kimberley had changed. The structure on the North side of the street was completely gone, leaving only a skeletal cement outline of where a new building would be going up. An old Mexican man sat about three stories up, shirtless and watching us – probably a worker – though it didn’t look like a lot of progress had been made recently. The small structure on the South side of the road was more intact – it’s structure of lovely little look out windows visible. I peeked into one of the lower windows and could see a beautiful round blue tiled pool, unmaintained, and rooms filled with about two feet of water. It too was a construction zone.
There was no furniture, nothing to indicate who had ever lived there or what the place had been, except for a little tile sign that said ‘Casa Kimberley’ and then around the corner another little sign that read ‘Casa Taylor’ with an arrow pointing back up the street. The larger structure had a laminated piece of paper glued to the door that indicated that a bank now owned the property and that it was being turned into condos. Sad.
I have no idea when the Casa Kimberley museum closed, but I did find an old real estate listing:
Elizabeth Taylor & Richard Burton’s Honeymoon Hideaway !
Step back into a time of romance & passion…….Where one of the worlds greatest love affairs, existed in a time of innocence
Casa Kimberley is one of the most famous landmarks on the Mexican
Riviera’s Gold Coast, and undoubtably the most celebrated property
in PUERTO VALLARTA, MEXICO !It is little known fact, Elizabeth Taylor sold the villas intact, including
Exclusive Art / Original Memorabillia / Antiques / Furniture
Clothes / Personal Photographs / Letters
to the current owner, as part of the agreement.
These items will be included in the sale & have considerable value.
There’s another, slightly less colorful real estate listing here.
Like the Burton/Taylor love affair, I guess nothing lasts forever – even a villa carved high onto the side of the mountain overlooking Banderas Bay. Still, I wonder where all her letters and photographs ended up and whether anyone thought to save the iconic heart shaped tub. Mexico is filled with ghosts and Casa Kimberley is one of them; no more than an empty slab of concrete, with very little to indicate that it was ever loved.
Image Credits:
Burton and Taylor on the Casa Kimberley Deck from Squidoo
All other photos by Amy Thibodeau
Amy Thibodeau is originally from the Canadian Prairies, spent the last few years in one of the world's greatest cities, London, UK and is spending the next year traveling around the world. She is interested in everything, but lately is mostly fixated on travel, food, art, politics, creative writing, cuddly animals and experimenting with different kinds of photography. You can find her on her personal blog 
Amy, what a beautiful, touching story. I’ve visited Puerto Vallarta, once, many years ago. I was traveling solo and unfortunately a little to fearful to start exploring on my own. I hope to get back one day and find all the hidden treasures it has to offer.
My Husband and I visited Puerto Vallarta in 2006, and we took a tour of Casa Kimberley which, at the time was operating as a bed and breakfast / museum. It was wonderful to look around the home (actually 2 homes connected by the famous lovers bridge). We had our photo taken in exactly the same spot as the photo of Liz and Richard Burton, on the terrace overlooking the mountains. Even four years ago, we did notice some signs of decay and the building was beginning to fall apart.
Actually it was up for sale but we could not have afforded the price ($1.25 million).
Two weeks ago, my Sister and her boyfriend went to Puerto Vallarta and (on our recommendation) took a cab to find casa Kimberley. They were shocked to find that it was surrounded by barbed wire and partially demolished. What a terrible shame. And what ever did happen to all those personal items and photos that were in the home? And what about Richard’s infamous bar that used to be an altar from an old mexican church? wonder where that went?
Very sad that this lovely old historic building could not have been saved.
I am glad I had a chance to see it while it was still in somewhat good condition.
From Janet (a Brit, living in the USA)
What a sad turn of events for an iconic piece of Puerto Vallarta history….Taylor & Burton, ultimate superstars of their era, put PV on the map. Their fame & notoriety brought glamour, style and millions of tourist dollars to the sleepy little village was barely heard of until they sent up camp. It was purchased by a local hotelier, Janice Chatterton, who also owns the lovely Hacienda San Angel. Her plans were allegedly turn it into a luxury boutique hotel preserving all that was “Liz & Dick.” What a shame……another historic building destroyed for the sake of progress, etc. One would have hoped that the founding fathers & preservationists of the city would have fought to see otherwise, realizing it’s value & worth. The ghosts of the past will live on forever in memory only……
I just returned from PV and took my daughter up to see Casa Kimberley. I knew it was no longer open for tours but wanted her to see the outside. I was shocked at the condition it was in. Too bad. I had toured the inside twice before when it operated as a bed and breakfast and found it quite fascinating. Sad to see the demoliton.
It is heartbreaking that Puerto Vallarta couldn’t preserve it’s romantic history and allowed Casa Kimberley to be destroyed. I visited PV 4 times and was planning to return this year but my plans have changed. One can go anywhere that has just alot of condo’s!!!
I just returned from PV and having seen Casa Kimberly on past visits, and knowing Liz Talyor had just died, I took the walk to Casa Kimberly expecting to see a shrine there. There was a camera man and a news reporter there putting together a story, and some flowers and a photo of Taylor on the gate, and a post it note saying,”Farewell Elizabeth. We love you.” stuck to the now cracked “Casa Kimberly” address tile. I was fully expecting the gay men of PV, visitors and residents to build a shrine. When I told another woman staying at the same hotel that there was really nothing there, she said, “Well it’s not as if Liza Minnelli died.”
There was though a nice black and white poster sized photo of Liz, Richard and probably her son, taken in the cathedral in PV back during the time she was frequenting the area, posted outside of the municipal building, along with a guest book to sign and a large bouquet of flowers.
The town is also doing a tribute to Taylor on the 27th of March.
http://visitpuertovallarta.com/events/tribute-to-elizabeth-taylor/
Here’s a lovely video, where you can see what remains of Casa Kimberly and the small tribute there: http://www.youtube.com/user/OCVVallarta?feature=mhum#p/a/f/0/52lwGT6HvKk
I was saddened to see the decline of Casa Kimberly, but gladdened to see that a nice tribute will occur.
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p.s. Here’s another nice article I found on Casa Kimberly and its declineand Taylor’s recent death:
http://www.squidoo.com/Taylorburton
The black and white photo of Taylor and Burton in the church in the link above is currently hanging outside the front hall of the Municipal Presidency in the town square along with a condolence book.
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I was just in PV and saw this listed on the tourist map they hand out everywhere. After shopping at the flea market, decided to try and find it… which wasn’t easy! But eventually we found it. Definitely a little sad to see the condition it was in but since I have no frame of reference it was more like a curio to me. Thanks for this page because I was interested in the history of it.
I AM OUTRAGED AT WHAT THEIR DOING TO CASA KIMBERLEY. ELIZABETH TAYLOR GAVE THIS HOME TO THE PEOPLE AS A HOTEL AND MUSEUM. THEY WOUL NOT DO THIS TO ELVIS PRESLEY, OR NAPOLEON AND JOSEFINE, OR DOLLY PARTON, LIZ GAVE AS AN ARTIST, TO AIDS PATIENTS, AND TO THE ORPHANES AND THE SICK AND NEEDY. SHE IS AN IMPORTANT HUMAN BEING IN THE 20TH AND 21TH CENTURY. SHE WAS UNIQUE. HER HOME WAS THE ONLY MUSEUM THAT PEOPLE COULD FIND OUT HOW SHE LIVED AND BRIVED SOME FRESH AIR, I KNOW SOME PEOPLE NEED IT. WHAT A STUPID THING AND A LOSS FOR PUERTO VALLARTA. I HOPED TO GO THERE NEXT YEAR. I HOPE THEY FIND A GOOD HEARTED BUYER SOON WHO WILL CONTINUE TO KEEP IT AS A HOTEL WITH ALL HER BELONGINGS IN IT; LIKE SHE LEFT IT.
I was just at Casa Kimberley last week(Dec. 2011). I was taken aback by the thought that these two lovers once shared this place, this small spot on earth hidden up in the cobblestones streets. Although it is torn down to the foundation, i can still feel the nostalgia of these peoples lives and what they gave to this city of Puerto Vallarta.
as a personal friend of the owner who purchased casa kimberly directly from liz i was a guest and tour guide of the estate.do not exclude the harshness of the local climate or toy with the idea that the owner is responsible .liz and dicks spirit and all it;s done for puerto vallarta can never be compromised. The current situation is consistent with their turbulant love affair. I have many stories to share.
I’d be very interested in purchasing this property… if you do in fact know the owner and if you think they would be interested please email me at biancamoon7414@gmail.com.
Thank you.
Please Marc, tell me.
Is there anything left to see here? The bridge? The nameplate on the stone wall? I’m here now and would love to take photos.
Sadly, there was very little left when I was there. The bottom four photos in the post were taken by me about a year and a half ago – they might still be there.